Elegant Black Satin
Mary from Orphans With MakeUp is with us today to share her tips and tricks for achieving a beautiful, satin finish with Clear Coat. Come check it out!
Hello friends. I was commissioned to repaint this tall boy. It is a very good quality piece of furniture, so it was definitely worth recycling. My client's request was to paint it crisp black, satin finish and add new hardware that would be re-positioned.
Here is the piece before I refinished it.
This is the end result. It looks kind of POTTERY BARNish, don’t you think?
The first thing was to plug up the old holes and sand them smooth. The tall boy was then painted in Liquorice and because the request was for a Satin finish, I chose to seal it with the Clear Coat instead of waxing. Then new hardware is from Lee Valley Hardware in case you are wondering.
I also wanted to share my unfortunate experience with the Clear Coat and to avoid this happening to you.
After painting, I waited only 12 hours and applied my Clear Coat. It is important to wait 24 HOURS between painting and top coating or you will get patchiness like what happened to me shown in the image below. This is the evaporation from the liquids in the paint that are now trapped by the top coat.
I remedied the situation by sanding down and starting over. So be patient and wait out the full 24 hours, even if it feels dry!
Because there were so many new holes to make, I really wanted to make sure the re-positioning of the new hardware was 100% accurate. Better safe than sorry, even though this will take a little extra time. Don’t try and eye-ball the new positioning of the holes, especially when you have so many to do.
The tall boy had two different sized drawers so I cut out two templates the size of the drawer fronts from scrap plywood and measured out where the new hardware would go.
After calculating, I drilled holes on to the templates. I then put the new hardware on the templates. If everything looks great on the template, then you are ready to drill the new holes onto the furniture.
I clamped the templates on the drawer fronts and drilled through the template and the drawer. Taking the time to do it this way will ensure accurate results.
Crisp black finish.
This is the end result. It looks kind of POTTERY BARNish, don’t you think?
The first thing was to plug up the old holes and sand them smooth. The tall boy was then painted in Liquorice and because the request was for a Satin finish, I chose to seal it with the Clear Coat instead of waxing. Then new hardware is from Lee Valley Hardware in case you are wondering.
I also wanted to share my unfortunate experience with the Clear Coat and to avoid this happening to you.
After painting, I waited only 12 hours and applied my Clear Coat. It is important to wait 24 HOURS between painting and top coating or you will get patchiness like what happened to me shown in the image below. This is the evaporation from the liquids in the paint that are now trapped by the top coat.
I remedied the situation by sanding down and starting over. So be patient and wait out the full 24 hours, even if it feels dry!
Because there were so many new holes to make, I really wanted to make sure the re-positioning of the new hardware was 100% accurate. Better safe than sorry, even though this will take a little extra time. Don’t try and eye-ball the new positioning of the holes, especially when you have so many to do.
The tall boy had two different sized drawers so I cut out two templates the size of the drawer fronts from scrap plywood and measured out where the new hardware would go.
After calculating, I drilled holes on to the templates. I then put the new hardware on the templates. If everything looks great on the template, then you are ready to drill the new holes onto the furniture.
I clamped the templates on the drawer fronts and drilled through the template and the drawer. Taking the time to do it this way will ensure accurate results.
Crisp black finish.
